Cruising the clearance sales at the LCBO

Do I need more wine? No. But that doesn’t stop me from always being on the lookout, either for something new and interesting, or something tried and true…at a great price. 

Inflation recently has “cooled” to 4.3 per cent, but everywhere we look, things just seem to cost a little bit more. When paying more is the “new normal” buying something when it is on sale just makes sense. 

This certainly holds true in the Vintages section at the LCBO, where currently a number of wines have been reduced to clear. As well, each month there are always additional wines that provide modest savings as what was once called “limited-time offerings.” 

Here are some of the wines that caught my attention this past week. 

Tenuta Fratelli Povero Terre del Conte Roero Arneis 2021 is an Italian white from the Piedmont. Towards the end of the last century, it had almost disappeared but has since made a resurgence. At $14.75, it is down $3.20 from its original price. David Lawrason of winealign.com wrote that it was “more aromatic and tropical” than expected, “perhaps due to a warm vintage. Expect lime leaf, green banana, spearmint and starfruit. It is light to medium-bodied, just off-dry but still delicate and fresh. The length is excellent. Lovely white!” -91. 

Elementi Organic Trebbiano Orange Wine 2021 is an authentic and well-made orange wine from the Abruzzo region, made from 30 per cent Malvasia and 70 per cent Trebbiano d'Abruzzo grapes. Orange wines represent a relatively new and growing category of white wines which undergo a period of skin contact at the start of the winemaking process. It offers the typical floral notes of the orange category with both fresh and dried floral fruit, candied citrus notes, acacia honey and Mediterranean herbs, oregano, chamomile and sage with a hint of salt on the slightly bitter finish. Originally $18.95, it is now on sale for $16.25. 

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay from Washington State is now $16.25, also down from $18.95.  This is a good choice for those who like the big buttery style of Chardonnay. The Wine Enthusiast suggests that “this hedonistic treat is a well-executed take on the buttery-creamy style of Chardonnay. The wine features coconut and warm apple-pie aromas, with a splash of rose water on the nose. Flavours such as lemon butter, spicy cinnamon and caramel apple fill every nook and cranny of the olfactory system.” -  87. 

For a contrast in styles, through Sunday, April 23, Malivoire Estate Grown Chardonnay from Niagara is $2 off at $19.95. Vic Harradine of winecurrent.com raved about it, explaining that “alluring aromas of rosewater, green apple, poached pear and peel marmalade meld nicely with mineral notes, citrus and notions of short-term, neutral oak barrels. A creamy-smooth river of nicely textured fruit persists to and through the balanced finish and aftertaste. Look for baked apple flavour, adorned by lemon pastille and hints of salinity.” - 95. Even at its regular price of $21.95, this is a very good buy. 

Rosés are also well represented in Clearances. Mas des Bressades Cuvée Tradition Rosé 2021, down from $16.95 to $13.70 has a terrific “Community Review” on winealign.com by Mark Kozar, who wrote “this is a paler, more floral and cherry pie version than the 2020 vintage: more approachable, more finesse, fantastic balance, and absolutely delicious. '21 is a step up from the very good '20 vintage and a bargain for the price”… and he was talking about $16.95! 

In 2018, Whispering Angel from Provence was the biggest selling rosé in the world. The 750 ml. bottle retails for $36 at the LCBO, but the 375 ml. is on clearance for $14.60 – not cheap, obviously, but a great opportunity to find out what it’s all about. I was impressed by the texture of the 2021 version, which is smooth and lush. British critic Jancis Robinson calls it “palate-grabbing”  

Of the Mirabeau X 2021 Rosé,  a British merchant, Drinkwell, writes, “Bold and fruit forward, X features aromas of pomegranate, lychee, tangerine, apricot and watermelon. In the mouth, it reveals a crisp acidity, as well as a round mid-palate, leaving notes of candy and cherry. Utterly refreshing this is a great aperitif, as well as a lovely wine to slice through flavoursome food.” It garnered Gold at the Berliner Trophy competition in 2022. $19.25 (-$2.70) 

Among the reds on clearance, we have La Tremenda Monastrell, $15.25 (-$2.70) which was praised by the Robert Parker people who wrote, “It's a more delicate expression of Monastrell, with good balance, quite transparent; it was easy, and the wines have very good freshness, with less concentration but terrific balance and definition, quite fruit-driven but with complexity and depth.” – 92. 

 Clarence Hill Shiraz 2019 from South Australia is now $16.75, (-$3.20) Upon release, the producer proposed initially that the wine was “Full-bodied, firm tannin with dark plum and mulberry palate with a hint of plum, vanilla and cedar. Crisp acidity with a well-balanced but tannic palate. Potential: This vintage has produced robust wines that will benefit from some time in the cellar for complexity.” By 2021, critic Sam Kim felt that the wine was “beautifully ripe and inviting, [with] a succulent palate delivering juicy fruit intensity together with rounded mouthfeel and silky tannins, finishing long and comforting. At its best to 2027.” – 93.  

If you enjoy Argentinian Malbec, then pick up El Esteco Blend de Extremos Malbec 2020, $16.25 (-$2.70). Made at high altitude, the wine is “expansive, with sweet flavours and notes of black fruits in a context of very round and friendly tannins.” - 91. (Patricio Tapia, guiadescorchados.cl, 2021) 

From a highly respected producer in the Veneto, the Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2019, $21.25 (-$3.70), was praised by James Suckling for its “Intense nose with hints of coffee and black chocolate to the raspberry jam and dark cherries. Nicely dry with a dark-chocolate character that extends to the long, polished finish with silky tannins.” - 93.  

There are many more wines in the Clearance category. Seek and ye shall find!  

April 15 Vintages Release 

White 

Alvi’s Drift Private Cellar Signature Range Viognier 2021, $13.95, from South Africa offers great flavour and potential. Up against more expensive examples, it has garnered the Grand Gold from the South African Wine Index. You can anticipate lush flavours of peach and nectarine with a round mouth feel, medium body and refreshing finish.  

Curvos Loureiro 2022, $14.95, is a bracing and lively Vinho Verde from Portugal which will be perfect in the warmer weather ahead. Have Faith. 

 Vidussi Ribolla Gialla 2021, $19.95, is a terrific white from Italy’s Friuli region. In addition to the 90 it received from the Austrian reviewers quoted in the catalogue, it earned the same rating from Ontario’s exacting Michael Vaughan in Vintages Assessments, who explains that it is “ Dry, medium to medium-light bodied, harmonious, slightly spicy, bright, melon-lemon-apple purée flavours with a lingering, perfectly balanced, bright, crisp finish.” 

Red 

Bisquertt Family Vineyards Crazy Rows Carignan 2020, $16.95, from Chile is a stellar buy, with ample fruit and the sensation of wild herbs with significant depth and concentration. It was Decanter’s Value Best in Show in 2022, and considered a wine “which seduces and stimulates in equal measure.” - 97.  

3 Rings Shiraz 2020. $17.95, from Australia’s Barossa Valley has earned the admiration of Ontario wine critic Vic Harradine who lauds its expansive purity of black raspberry and black currant fruit with lots of zip; yet, it still showcases structure and balance – 93. 

André Brunel Cuvée Sabrine Côtes du Rhône-Villages 2019, $18.95, from France, is equally admired by another respected Ontario wine writer, Rod Phillips, for being delicious, robust and balanced and possessing flavours even more intense than usually found in the red wines of the region. – 92.