Giving and enjoying wine

The Holidays are imminent, and the parties already upon us, and so it is time perhaps to suggest some wines you may wish to pick up to enhance your get-togethers or to give to someone you think will enjoy them. 

Champagne is almost synonymous with celebration.

Two good value examples, Victoire Brut Prestige and Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive are on sale until New Year’s. Priced at $41.95 and $52.95 respectively. This is a relatively modest price point for Champagne. The former certainly meets the standards for Champagne, with a moderate “baked bread” quality on the nose, creamy texture, and citrus finish. The latter has consistent reviews in the 90s, with its fine balance, creamy bubbles, peach and lemon-like flavours, and classic Champagne character. 

At a lower price you will find wines made in the Champagne style, but not from the Champagne region. Generally they retail for significantly less. I am a fan of the Jackson-Triggs Entourage Grand Reserve Brut from Ontario, $29.95, and recently was impressed with the Veuve Ambal Cremant de Bourgogne Grand Cuvée Brut, $21.15.   

Of the 'Entourage', Michael Vaughan of Vintage Assessments writes, “Bright light straw colour with streams of tiny bubbles. Attractive, slightly spicy, fresh, Anjou-pear-tinged, ripe, lemon-apple meringue nose with some toasty-mineral notes. Very dry, medium bodied, complex, citrusy, lemon meringue flavours with a lingering, crisp, toasty-brioche finish and fine effervescence.” -91. This wine is available at the Wine Rack stores in Rome’s and the Churchill Plaza Metro. 

Like the Jackson-Triggs Entourage, the Veuve Ambal Cremant de Bourgogne is made from the same varieties of grapes associated with Champagne, but this time, in Burgundy. It is elegant, toasty, textured and creamy – in all, a very well-made sparkler that over-delivers at the price. 

All that said, you can’t go wrong with Prosecco. These wines are simpler, certainly than those made in the traditional method, but… who cares! They are made for enjoyment, not for deep contemplation. They can be great wines for starting an evening with friends, and, if you intend to make Bellinis (peach) or Mimosas (orange) a prosecco is perfect. 

Basically, you start with one part peach nectar to three parts sparkling wine for the Bellini, or the same proportions of orange juice for a Mimosa. I like to pump them up with a splash or two of liqueur – let’s say Peach Schnapps or something like Cointreau, respectively.  

Ruffino makes a decent Prosecco for $19.95, and the Mionetti Prestige Prosecco is $2 off at $15.95. The Ruffino has a fair bit more sweetness at 17 g/l, compared to the 10 grams for Mionetti. 

When it comes to gifting wine, the basic questions are what would the recipient appreciate, and what is reasonable in terms of price. 'Reasonable' depends on what you feel you ought to spend, and what you can comfortably afford. There are terrific wines at every price point, some of the less expensive wines at times representing even better value. 

From the house of Catena in Argentina comes El Enemigo. Currently available is the Syrah Viognier, $26.95,  with the white grape Viognier judiciously adding a floral note to the classic Rhone grape, Syrah.Vinous.com explains that “bright purple in hue, this Cote Rotie style Syrah offers diaphanous aromas of dark fruit, spices, blackberry, blueberry and pepper with hints of smoke and a whiff of something floral. It has a mild, juicy freshness that leaves the mouth full of flavour while a gentle touch of chalk brings texture.” – 94. 

When you consider that an inexpensive “Cote Rotie” from France would retail for over $70, this wine represents significant value. 

I have read good things about Niagara’s Peninsula Ridge Shiraz, $16.95. It is unusual to see an Ontario wine called ‘Shiraz’ a style of Syrah ordinarily associated with Australia. 

This is NOT a typical Aussie Shiraz… but it is very good. It differs because it is quite pale for a red wine and lighter in texture than you expect in a Shiraz, but it is savoury with long-lasting flavours and would work well with chicken, or turkey, of course. 

I have long appreciated Australia’s Peter Lehmann The Barossan line of wines. Both the Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 and the Shiraz 2020 will be available in Vintages on the 17^th at $21.95. The Cab “is succulent, supple and lingering on the palate with excellent weight and intensity, finishing long and very tasty,” according to wineorbit.co.nz,   

The Shiraz is stellar, with danmurphys.com suggesting that “lifted cherry and brooding dark fruit aromas combine seamlessly with sweet chocolate and mocha undertones to deliver an intense, generous and full-bodied wine.”  

Either of these – or both - would be much appreciated at Christmas, wouldn’t they? 

For those who enjoy the California style of Pinot Noir, there are no fewer than four different examples of the Belle Glos line in our store, each selling for $59.95. The fact that there are four distinct Belle Glos Pinots here is a clear indication of their popularity – if they weren’t popular, especially at $60 a bottle, the LCBO would not ship them to our store. 

Of the Las Alturas Vineyard 2019, the Wine Enthusiast ranked it #11 on their Top 100 Wines of 2021, explaining that “the palate is a whirlwind of exuberance, as leathery tannins wrap around more graphite minerality, dried violet and lavender, with stewed plum and a touch of bittersweet cocoa on the finish. “ – 96. The others should be equally attractive, but one caution – they have significant alcohol with the Las Alturas weighing in at 14.5 per cent. 

If price is no object, then the Luce 2019, $120.95, may be the wine for you. Originally an endeavour in the Montalcino region of Tuscany between Robert Mondavi and the house of Frescobaldi, Luce is now a blend of Merlot and Sangiovese made to the highest standards. The  Wine Spectator says it is “rich and deeply coloured, evoking black cherry, blackberry, plum, tar, wild herb and spice flavours. Dense yet retains a sense of freshness, with refined tannins lining the finish. Nicely integrated and long.” – 94. In turn James Suckling remarks on its “super precision and intensity to the tannins. Incredible balance of structure and finesse”, and suggests giving it at least another 5 years before opening it – 99. 

For Port lovers, there are a few attractive options. Currently available is the Taylor Fladgate Late Bottled Vintage Port. Currently $2.50 off at $17.45. Vintages explains that “LBV Port is aged four to six years in wood, and ready to drink when bottled. Deep ruby, with aromas of dark plum and minerally, smoky notes. Sweet, with medium body, supple tannins and balanced acidity. Enjoy flavours of plum with smoky tones, to herbal, chocolatey finish. Serve with rich cheese or chocolate desserts.”  

The same port is also available in a gift box with two branded port glasses for $26.95. 

The past few years, Taylor Fladgate has released a reserve tawny port in a replica bottle from previous centuries. This year, the bottle for the Taylor Fladgate Historic Limited Edition Reserve Tawny Port, $51.95, is based on a style from the 1730s. Tawny port is somewhat aged, with portions here over 20 years old. It has a nutty note along with fruit and spice. It carries 106 grams of sugar per litre, but this wine can even be paired with a main course. One writer suggests serving it with Beef Bourguignon. It would also go well with desserts such as Crème Bruléé, or a Portuguese tart. 

Then, there is Vintage Port, a port from a particular year. Cavas Santa Marta Vintage Port 2000, $54.95, stands out as coming from the first Co-operative (group of small producers) to ever market a Vintage Port. With a Gold from the Wine Masters Challenge in 2003, this port is balanced and quite easy to drink for current enjoyment. Flavours of chocolate and raisin emerge and carry through to an attractive conclusion. 

Turning to some white wine options, here are a few that you can appreciate. Vesevo Beneventano Falanghina 2020, $17.95, from Campania in the region around Naples is intense and long-lasting. On the nose a sense of both orange blossom and evergreen, with pear, apple and minerality on the palate. It has good weight and is simply tasty. A perfect wine for fish dishes this festive season. 

Cave Spring Cellars Estate Riesling from Niagara is a great dry Riesling (7 grams of sugar per litre). It is tart with apple-like crispness, lemony citrus and a touch of honey on the finish to off-set the acidity. $2 off at $19.95 until the end of the month, this is the perfect wine if you are serving ham over the holidays 

Given the number of New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs which regularly appear on the Vintages shelves, there is an army of people who march to the Kiwi drummer. Esk Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020, $21.95 arrives on the 17^th.  decanter.com writes of “tropical fruit, fresh herbs, ripe apple and citrus, and a wet stone-like mineral complexity”, both on the nose and on the palate – 92. 

Ontario’s Hidden Bench follows strict biodynamic principals in the management of the vineyards and production of their Estate Organic Chardonnay, $31.95. A retailer in Nova Scotia, “Bishop’s Cellar” explains “the nose opens to fresh green apples and pears, green almond, hints of toast, and wet stone. The palate is creamy, with a touch of spice and toast to compliment the fresh citrus and orchard fruit accords. High acidity and an enticing salinity come together to create a beautiful expression of cool climate Chardonnay.” 

I hope these suggestions give you some help in making your choices. Have a very Happy Holiday, and a terrific 2023.