WEEKEND WINE: The beat goes on

As August winds down, much in the world of wine remains the same, with the “new normal” created by Climate Change putting strains on grape growers and winemakers all over the world.

A deadly deep freeze last winter, combined with wildfires the previous two years, has decimated both vines and production in British Columbia. The January event resulted in a 90 per cent loss of the 2024 grape crop, as well as killing 15 per cent of the vines. In response, for the first time the B.C. government is allowing wineries to import both grapes and grape juice in order to produce a 2024 Vintage.

Currently, this allowance is only for a limited time. Decades ago, when a severe frost struck Niagara, the government allowed the use of imported juice and even wine, which was the beginning of seeing “international blends” from Ontario wineries containing both imported and homegrown product.

In much of Europe, as well as Australia and Argentina, drought and increasing temperatures are playing havoc with agriculture in general and grape growing in particular according to a report in the Climate Change Post of April 4, 2024.

If annual temperatures continue to rise, much of the traditional grape-growing regions in southern Europe – Italy, Spain, Greece, for example – could disappear. The critical level is just 2° C. The same applies to southern California. Even this year drought is a huge problem, and so an increase in irrigation just isn’t a likely option.

The drought problem may not be as big an issue in regions further north, such as France, but even there, grapes that have thrived may not be as viable in the future, and so wineries are experimenting with different grapes. Ironically, a grape like Tempranillo, the mainstay of Rioja in Spain, may one day be a godsend in Bordeaux, even if it can no longer be grown effectively at home.

New, more northerly wine-producing regions may develop and expand. Already there has been significant development in southern England, and we are also seeing the Ontario wine industry burgeoning. Some grapes which once might have been considered too “finickity” for our climate may become more common and reliable.

At one point Cave Spring Cellars switched out its Merlot; these days, grapes such as Merlot, Syrah, and even Italy’s Nebbiolo could become more and more common.

Wine producers, too, are always subject to market demands. Until recently, there had been a steady growth in wine drinking from at least the early 1980s and on. Now, with the advent of alcoholic coolers, young people have been turning away from wine, such that there has been shrinkage in demand for lower-priced wines. This is having an impact on bulk producers in particular. In Australia, some regions have been ripping out their vines and turning to other crops, such as olives.

There is growth in wine consumption in both India and China, but how that ultimately plays out remains to be seen.

The challenges, it seems, are here to stay. We know that the industry worldwide is intent on meeting them, and we will be cheering them on.

With the August Vintages Release, I am also cheering for the LCBO, as it has some great buys, as many as we enjoyed in July. Originally due out Aug. 10, the release was delayed until this Saturday, Aug. 24. Here are some wines that I am sure will please you.

White

Colombelle Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $12.95. Rarely in Vintages do we find as inexpensive a wine as this one from the southwest of France. According to writer Roger Voss, “the wine is a classic blend for the Côtes de Gascogne. Its balance between intense herbal acidity and ripe tropical flavours works well. It gives freshness and ripeness to the wine.” It carries a respectable 87 from the Wine Enthusiast.

Federici Isaì Sauvignon Blanc, $15.95. We don’t usually find Sauvignon Blanc from Italy, but here is a well-made example produced in the Rome region of Lazio. The winery suggests that, “on the nose, the varietal characteristics stand out, such as tomato leaf, pepper and herbaceous notes, along with a sweet finish reminiscent of peach. In the mouth, it is balanced, although the varietal notes predominate. Fresh and persistent.” Critic Luca Maroni gives it a generous 97.

Perica Olagosa Barrel Fermented White Blend 2022, $17.95, from Spain, is described as bringing “fine oak creaminess, vanilla and marzipan to the dried lemons and lemon curd. This is supple, textured, yet fresh with a very flavourful centre palate and a long, creamy finish” – 92. jamessuckling.com.

Caliterra Tributo Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2022, $17.95, from Chile can be compared to the following wine from France. British merchant Wood Winters suggests that “the green tones around the rim of the glass resemble a young wine endorsed by the aromas of delicious tropical fruit like guava and banana and by a classical honey background but yet with a mineral touch that makes it special. In the mouth, it is dry with nerve and the medium body extends its perception.”

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses Chardonnay 2022, $17.95, from France’s Pays d’Oc contrasts with the Caliterra above, in that it has the characteristics of a chardonnay that has seen time in oak. The winery explains that “this cuvée has a beautiful pale colour with golden highlights. The nose develops aromas of mango, dried fruit almond and hazelnut, as well as citrus notes citrus notes of grapefruit and orange blossom. On the palate, barrel aging brings aromas of vanilla aromas of vanilla, cinnamon, fresh butter and spices. spices. The finish is marked by minerality and good length.”

Both Chardonnays are well made, and give a good comparison of the two distinct styles.

Rosé

Le Bijou de Sophie Valrose Rosé 2023, $17.95, from France’s Languedoc, is described by the winery as “a beautiful pale salmon-coloured rosé. Elegantly fragrant, with aromas of wild strawberries, citrus and delicate floral notes. Round and creamy on the palate, with ripe red berry flavours and a soft minerality. Elegant and balanced with refreshing acidity and a silky smooth finish.”

Domaine Terre Davau Tavel Rosé 2023, $19.95, gives us a significant contrast to the previous Rosé. The French guide, Gilbertgaillard, tells us it is “deep red with ruby highlights…Full-bodied, rich and balanced on the palate, with a liveliness that gives it an airy dimension. Evolves towards a delicate spiciness. A modern and beautifully made Tavel. – 90.

Orange

Orange wine is a growing category featuring normally white wines that undergo a period of skin contact at the outset of the wine-making process, similar to that used for red wines. The practice is not new- they have been using it in the country of Georgia for centuries.

Attems Ramato Pinot Grigio 2023, $19.95, Friuli in Italy. “Ramato” gets its name from the colour of the wine, which has a coppery hue. The Pinot Grigio grape actually has a rosy-grey skin and is a clone of Pinot Noir. Up until the 1960’s this ‘ramato’ version was typical for the region. Orange wines have more texture, and more “oomph” than white wines. Writer Kirk Peterson explains that “the added skin contact does wonders by adding another dimension of depth and savoury drinkability to Pinot Grigio. Ramato has flavours and aromas of orchard fruit skin and acacia flowers with a mineral, tactile finish.” Here is a distinct and characterful wine well worth trying.

Pomelado Orange wine 2022, $18.95 is from Spain. “Medium-bodied and fragrant, with subtle spiciness and textured tannins without any bitterness. Very approachable.” – jamessuckling.com– 90.

Gérard Bertrand Orange Gold 2022, $22.95, is made from a broad range of white grapes, with skin contact providing a rich golden colour. Vintages suggests it carries flavours of apricot and tangerine peel paired with the scent of ginger and beeswax. Suckling says that it is fun, medium-bodied, tactile, and generously fruited – 90. 

Red

Piekenierskloof Six Hats Shiraz 2022, $13.95, is a winner from South Africa. Calling it simply spectacular, winecurrent.com tells us that it is generous on the nose with a cooling freshness on the palate that enhances the dark cherry and plum flavours with a hint of zesty orange. 92.

Luis Gurpegui 147 Anniversario Tempranillo 2021, $14.95, from Spain’s Rioja, gives us “a bouquet of black currant, purple plum and juniper berry. Flavours of ripe cherry, raspberry, eucalyptus, clove, cocoa powder and lavender are wrapped in a shroud of muscular tannins that power into a lengthy finish.” - Wine Enthusiast –.

Palacio Del burgo Crianza 2019, $14.95, is another Rioja red, this one with a bit more aging. “Pomegranate and molasses nose. Ripe raspberry, toasted brioche and salty palate. Fresh with smooth tannins and a piquant earthy finish.” Decanter 91

Château Calet 2019, $14.95, is an impressive red from the Côtes de Bordeaux. Mostly Merlot, this wine has a density that emphasizes fruitiness first, the smoky structure second. It promises power, with acidity and black fruits at the end. Wine Enthusiast 91

Domaine la Décelle Réserve Côtes du Rhône-Villages Valréas 2020, $15.95, is a French red from an identified village, Valréas, which is an even more specific indication of quality. Expect dark black bramble fruit with a warm robe of spice and slight smokiness followed by concentrated flavours of bramble and herbs such as rosemary. It has balance, grip, and a velvety texture without losing its freshness.

There are literally dozens more terrific buys this month. Search them out, and enjoy.