VIN GRECO: Should you drive home from a wine tasting?

Earlier this month, after a break of several years, I finally attended a large wine trade tasting in Toronto.

Gambero Rosso is the primary evaluator of Italian wines and customarily holds tastings across Canada to introduce its major award recipients each year. That was interrupted by COVID but is now back on schedule.

It was interesting on many levels. It seemed to me that there were fewer Italian wineries represented, but it was a bit hard to determine in that, unlike past events, Gambero Rosso did not provide a catalogue of the wineries and wines that were available for tasting.  I have always found that booklet very handy for making notes, and this year it felt more like a seat-of-the-pants endeavour.

In the past, too, there was always a buffet. While it might seem like we expected to be able to “belly up to the trough”, you have to remember that one might easily be tasting over a hundred wines in just a few hours. Having something in your stomach to help in the process is appreciated. Even one of the Agents representing some of the wineries remarked on the absence.

That said, I persevered!

These trade tastings are interesting. “Trade” is significant, as the primary audience is restaurants and such which might be willing to include some of the wines presented on their wine lists. This tasting was built around Italian wines that had earned the “Tre Bicchieri” –or three glasses – which represents the highest evaluation a wine could earn.

The quality, by definition, was high. Then things got interesting. Some of the wines are readily available in the LCBO system – good for us, the consumers. Others can only be purchased “on consignment” from an agent here in Ontario. Then there are wines that in fact have no representation here in Ontario, and so cannot be purchased at this time.

At events such as these, there is an important distinction between “drinking” and "tasting”. Were you to drink the ounce or less poured for you with each wine, you would be ‘blotto’ in no time. Basically, you have to take the wine into your mouth, get an impression, and spit it out. Gambero Rosso actually provided disposable “spittoons” to accommodate the practice.

Nevertheless, swallowing or not, after a few hours one is in no condition to get behind the wheel. Let’s hear it for public transit!

From a writer’s perspective, particularly one at a distance from the throbbing heart of Ontario gastronomy (Toronto?), the tasting was a chance to meet and chat with winemakers and representatives from the wineries in Italy, as well as with the agents that represent many of them here in Ontario.

A white wine that particularly impressed me was the Grisara Pecorello from the Roberto Ceraudo winery in Calabria. Is it a rare varietal? I had never heard of it before. Trying to research it I looked in two reliable texts on wine and found no mention.

Finally, on the website of a British merchant, Winebuyers.com, I found the following description of this wine produced in Cosenza: “The Ceraudo Grisara is one made from the Pecorello… This local grape, rediscovered by Roberto Ceraudo, has a vibrant golden colour. The nose is rich, intense and complex with spicy and spicy hints mixed with a certain sweetness, savoury notes and a touch of flowers of almond tree. In the mouth, the olfactory sensations return, with a citrus note of bitter grapefruit, juiciness and minerality in abundance with a pleasant aftertaste.”

As wonderful as this is, I don’t know when or if I will taste it again. The winery had no representation here as of a couple of weeks ago. An agent friend tasted the wine and was impressed, but believed that at the price point for which the wine retails, it would be difficult to market a wine from Calabria. Winebuyers.com lists it at £21.08, putting the price here at over $35.

A wine that I hope to see back in Vintages is Torrevento: Castel del Monte Bolonero. It is out of stock in most stores now. From Puglia, It is a red blend of Nero di Troia and Aglianico and offers red berry fruit and notes of wild herb on a palate noted for its silky, lightly tannic texture. It is only $13.95.

I was introduced to some lovely Friulano wines from Monviert by the agent who represents them, Louise Wilson Cormier of Wilco Fine Beverages. Though not on the market yet, they merit our attention when they get here. Gambero Rosso is very high on their Riservas.  The Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2019 spent two and a half years in stainless steel and another six months in bottles prior to release, which is amazing for a white wine. It has great structure and complexity. I am looking forward to its arrival, either in consignment or in our stores.

I particularly enjoyed tasting wines from the Veneto. Among the wines being poured by Alberto Zenato was the Zenato Ripassa Valpoicella Ripasso Superiore, currently $3 off until mid-July at $27.95. It is a stunner. The 2018 consistently has scores over 90, combining poise with concentrated intense flavours of black fruit, dried flowers and subtle savoury herbs. It is clearly one of the best wines made in the Ripasso style.

With a pedigree as impressive as Zenato’s is Allegrini. The Allegrini Valpolicella 2021, $19.95, emphasizes freshness. The Wine Enthusiast tells us “This wine's aromas are captivating. The nose is a true sensory experience, with notes of wild berries mixed with hints of herbs, bell peppers and forest floor. The palate continues with a mix of blueberries, strawberries, subtle dried herbal notes, savoury spices and fine tannins. The palate vibrates with the right amount of acidity to keep it all together on the finish.” – 91.

Allegrini’s Palazzo Della Torre, about $25, provides an interesting comparison with Zenato’s Ripassa. The Ripassa is made by pouring the freshly fermented wine over the skins left over from the production of Amarone, then put through a second fermentation. (The grapes are dried first for a period in creating Amarone.)

The Pallazo Della Torre uses the Appassimento treatment. The wine goes through its first fermentation, but about a third of the grapes are held back and dried. After the initial fermentation is complete, the whole dried grapes (not just skins) are added and the second fermentation takes place. At present, this wine is not available, but should return to the shelves later this year.

Monte del Fra’s very good Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2020, $28.95, is available on-line at Vintages. Full and smooth, the wine suggest cherries soaked in brandy with grace notes of tobacco and licorice. Pepper and cinnamon spice round off the flavours.

The Monte del Fra Lena di Mezzo Valpolicella Classico 2021, $21.95, is on the June 24^th release. High-scoring Luca Maroni gives it a 93, but to put it into perspective, the previous vintage, tasted back in November earned a very respectable 90 from decanter.com, which picked up on “aromas and flavours of spiced plum, black cherry and tangy raspberry, backed by some creamy chocolate. Chalk-textured tannins are balanced by fresh acidity, lending a fresh character with plenty of bite to cope with food.”

I am most impressed, however, with their white wines. I hope that their Ca del Magro Custoza Superiore will re-appear soon on our shelves. This “Tre Bicchieri” wine comes from a single vineyard planted to 5 different white grapes, and undergoes fermentation in concrete with skin contact. Winescores.ca out of British Columbia gave the 2019 a score of 91: “This is a definitive food wine that has a golden hue and notes of candle wax and yellow apples, star fruit and wild honey with peach fuzz undertones. It has a slick texture and lovely mouthfeel alongside zesty pomelo and lemon wax flavours. A singular wine.”

In all, the Gambero Rosso tasting was enjoyable, and a terrific reminder of how superb Italian wines can be.  Viva Italia!

Vintages Releases

May 27

Confidencial Reserva Rosé 2022, $16.95, has an 88 from winealign.com which compared it to examples from Provence. Tangy fruit is followed up with herbal and mineral overtones – a great wine for the warm weather.

Famille Perrin Réserve Rosé 2022, $17.95, is a fresh and elegant rosé with balance and complexity – but definitely subtle in its approach.

Tasca d’Almerita Regaleali Bianco 2021, $17.95, is a white wine from Sicily which chuckbyersblogspot.com  approves of –“Ripe fruit, light to medium body, soft silky mouth feel, finish is long with ripe fruit and pleasant unobtrusive sweetness.” – 94.

Joseph Cattin Pinot Gris 2021, $16.95, clearly demonstrates the difference between “Pinot Gris” and “Pinot Grigio” – same grape basically, but worlds apart in style. Vintages tells us that this one is “spicy and smoky, with suggestions of apricot, honey and gingerbread.” It was awarded Gold at the 2022 Concours Général tasting in Paris.

Cape Point Vineyards Noordhoek Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $18.95, is an intriguing example from South Africa. “With usual touch of Semillon, previewed 2022 has subtly intense range of riper & greener flavours, a kernel of sweet peachy fruit to its brightly succulent dryness. 14% barrel fermented, on lees 6 months for texture & breadth. Styled to develop over 6-10 years. Score - 92.”  Platter’s South African wine Guiide.

Borgo Scopeto Borgonero 2019, $20.95, is a Tuscan blend which includes Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot along with the customary Sangiovese. It is described thus by winescritic.com: “Solid and with good sensory wine properties, this wine offers notes of raspberries, currants, cherries, lemon peel and camphor. Full body, incredibly polymerized tannins with a solid and very precise finish – 92.”

Cerro Añon Reserva 2018, $21.95, is a classic and well-priced choice for those who enjoy Spanish Rioja. “Deep ruby in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of black currant and blackberry with a touch of green bell pepper. Flavors of cassis, Chambord, bittersweet chocolate, clove and roasted fennel bulb are set into a web of velvet tannins that dissolve into a drawn out finish with note of orange zest. Editors' Choice. Score - 92.” (Mike DeSimone, Wine Enthusiast, Sept. 1, 2022)

Peter Lehmann The Barossan Shiraz 2020, $21.95, is a red with poise from Australia. “Full-bodied and plushy with lots to love; a classic with ripe blackberry, plum, cherry, black pepper and toasty oak spice flavours big and bold with a deliciously long mocha finish.” – 92.  nataliemcalean.com.

June 24 Vintages Release

Pitars Millesimato Extra Dry Prosecco 2021, $16.95. Of an earlier vintage of this sparkler from northern Italy, Falstaff.com made this assessment: “Brilliant white gold. Medium expression on the nose, cool. Clear white peach and yellow stone fruit on the palate, fresh mousse, very thrilling, thousands of dense bubbles make for a lot of fun.” Critic James Suckling gives this vintage a 90.

Chateau Val-Joanis Tradition Rosé 2022, $20.95, took the International Trophy in Frankfurt, Germany this year. Vintages says “it displays juicy notes of peach and cherry with suggestions of garrigue and white pepper amping up the complexity.” (Garrigue refers to the impact of wild herbs growing near the vineyard.)

Pitars Braida Santa Cecilia Pinot Grigio 2020, $16.95, from Friuli, gives us a chance to compare it to the Pinot Gris from Cattin in Alsace mentioned above. Vintages describes it as an “attractive, saline PG with acacia flowers, dried lemon, baked apple and peachy notes.”

Gabriel Meffre Saint-Vincent Côtes du Rhône 2021, $18.95, offers ample flavours of peach and pear with good grip. A fine white wine for summer from a top-notch producer from the south of France.

Paringa Shiraz 2019, $17.95, is an enticing buy from South Australia. Wine Business Magazine was very enthusiastic about it calling it “A ripper value red... Bold, big, fleshy and full, booze soaked berries, figs and dates, smoky spice and clove/cedar wood notes abound. It sits plush and lush in the palate and drives with thick rolls of tannin…finding excellent balance and concentration.” Score - 92.

(A few bottles of the Paringa Peninsula Shiraz 2019 can be found on the clearance shelf. Originally $38, it is now a shade over $31. “A vibrant garnet/purple hue; a core of ripe plums, with a flash of cloves, cinnamon, all warm spices and florals. The palate is savoury, with an appealing succulence bolstered by supple tannins and terrific freshness.” -95 –wineconpanion.com.au.)

Domaine Lafage Cuvée Nicolas Vieilles Vignes Grenache Noir 2020, $19.95, is a super wine from France’s Côtes Catalanes. The praise from jancisrobinson.com is exuberant: “Gorgeously fruity nose and masses of pure, lavishly red shiny fruit. This is a delight. Peppery freshness, the sweetness of the fruit so well balanced by an orange-citric tang and a subtle tangle of dry herbs and cool liquorice root. Carrying its 15% alcohol with consummate ease.” -   17 out of 20 

Cantina Tollo Mo Riserva Montepuciano d’Abruzzo 2017, $21.95, is an Italian red with Gambero Rosso’s “Tre Bicchieri” designation. Our friends at “Falstaff” say that the wine is “bright ruby-red. The nose is slightly smoky, showing fine nuances of precious wood, cherry juice and then freshly baked bread. There is also a mildly resinous aroma in the background. The palate opens with well-defined ripe fruit and pithy tannins and has a great freshness which lingers long into the finish.” – 92.

As you can tell from above, prices are rising. With wine, inflation is catching up with everything else. I continue to monitor the Clearances and intend to take a much closer look at wines on the regular list.

A case in point: At the Wine Rack stores in Rome’s and the Churchill Plaza Metro, as well as the LCBO, the Sandbanks Rosé is just $12.95, $2 off until mid-July. A blend of three white grapes along with Baco Noir (which gives it its colour), it has enough zip that it comes across definitely as dry, though it carries 11 grams of sugar per litre – which really isn’t very much. Tangerine and grapefruit flavours are detectable. In all, it is enjoyable and very easy to take on a summer afternoon!