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WINE ALL THE TIME: Now that the strike is over

This week, Vin takes us behind the scenes of the strike at LCBO and, now that it's over, shares his picks for the best value wines he found at the reopened liquor store
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The strike earlier this month was the first in the history of the LCBO. I believe that the cause of the strike can be laid squarely at the desk of Doug Ford.

On the surface, the decision to allow convenience stores and other businesses to sell beer, wine and alcoholic coolers may seem reasonable. If it were actually being done to give the public easier access to alcohol and to support small businesses, it could be commendable; however, in his play, “Murder In The Cathedral”, T. S. Eliot wrote, “The last act is the greatest treason. To do the right deed for the wrong reason.”

The Ontario Liberals are calling this decision the “Billion Dollar Boondoggle” suggesting that it will cost the people of Ontario that much money, and that Ford has done; this now in order to position himself to call an election prior to any inquiry into the Greenbelt Scandal.

Heads rolled when the Conservatives tried to sell off parts of the Greenbelt for housing in a move that would have enriched supporters of the party, and the whole initiative was reversed.

In order to allow grocery and convenience stores to sell beer in 12 and 24 packs, Ford is paying the Big Three breweries which control the Beer Store 225 million dollars, as up until now the Beer Store alone had that option. Had he waited until 2025 to do this, the agreement between the government and the big breweries would have ended, and this huge payment would likely have been unnecessary.

Ironically, you will find that the only beer being sold in the larger formats is that owned by the big breweries. This seems like a tremendous sweetheart deal for them, and the citizens of Ontario are paying for it.

Then there is the issue of loss of revenue to the LCBO, which every year puts billions of dollars into the Ontario treasury. Until now, successive provincial governments have considered privatizing the sale of alcohol, and each time they have backed away because of the financial impact. None have wanted to kill the goose that lays the golden egg.

It has been estimated that the government will receive 150 to 200 million dollars a year less from the LCBO as sales are lost to the other stores. It is anticipated that over 8000 stores will be licenced, but there will be no fee for those licences – again, a loss of revenue for the province.

Apparently, too, these stores will be purchasing products from the LCBO at a discount. They will be allowed to sell it for less than it is sold in the LCBO if they wish. Perhaps this will happen initially, but putting things into perspective, we usually pay a premium for what we buy at a convenience store, because we are paying for the convenience, too.

The workers struck because of the uncertainty surrounding their jobs with all the changes. In the settlement, they have been given an 8 percent wage hike over the next three years. Considering what might have been lost to inflation in the last couple of years, this certainly isn’t overly generous. (WestJet mechanics also settled recently and were given an immediate hike of over 15 %.)

It was agreed that there would be no store closures as a result of the expansion of sales to convenience stores for the next three years, thus providing some job security.

In addition, 1000 casual positions will be converted to permanent full-time jobs. Management was originally offering 400. When you consider that 70% of the LCBO staff –about 6300 - were casual, this is a move in the right direction, but again, not nearly enough in my mind. It seems unconscionable that a government agency making about 2.5 billion dollars a year for the Province should rely on a hiring model that maximizes profit over fair employment.

Another step towards assuaging worker concerns over the impact of the new policies on their jobs is the letter of agreement by which the LCBO and OPSEU will create a joint task force "to explore innovative business models that may improve LCBO competitiveness" which could include opening stores in new markets or even pop-up liquor stores run by LCBO workers.

The purchase of alcohol in Ontario will be easier for consumers going forward. It is important to note, however, that the product will come from the LCBO and there will be nothing different from what is sold there. There will only be Ontario wines carried by the LCBO. Stores like Colio’s at Pino’s and the Wine Rack stores at Metro and Rome’s do have a different product base as they sell their own wines under historic licences that pre-date Free Trade agreements with the U.S.A.

While this move does offer convenience, I would be happier to see that individual stores could stock wines from other Ontario producers which currently aren’t found in the LCBO. That would add variety to the convenience and be an even more legitimate alternative to the LCBO.

There are many, particularly those in large cities, that have trashed the LCBO model. I firmly believe that, if we didn’t have the LCBO – the biggest purchaser of alcohol next to Costco in the States - the selection of products available to us would be decimated.

Presently, we can buy other products not found at the LCBO from companies such as WineOnline.ca or from Ontario wineries, but usually, it means you are buying a case at a time of a particular wine.

In addition, if a wine or spirit happens to still be available at the LCBO warehouse, we can generally have it shipped to the store of our choice for free, provided we spend $50. At the moment, this service is suspended while things get back to normal. You can still choose home delivery, but that can take up to three weeks. Prior to the strike, that also required a purchase of $250, but I am not sure if that still applies.

I am sure there will be wrinkles to iron out, but wine, beer and coolers in convenience and other stores will be the new normal. The strike addressed the workers' concerns. Now we shall just have to wait to see if all these developments have paved the way for more political hoopla and manoeuvering. It is an interesting world.

With the strike ended, we are finally able to purchase Vintages wines from the June 6 release.

July 6 Vintages Release

There are 24 wines priced at $17 or less, and over 40 more under $20, not to mention excellent choices for less than $25.

White

Artesano de Argento Agrelo Vineyard Organic White Malbec 2023, $14.95, gives us an opportunity to try something quite different, a white Malbec. Vinous.com tells us that “the nose presents enticing apple, cherry, violet, and mint aromas. The palate has a lean, dry core underlined by a refreshing flow.”  - 89-91.

Morandé Selección de Viñedos Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $14.95, from Chile is an excellent example of this popular grape. Expect to find that “a burst of pink grapefruit spritz combines beautifully with a salty mineral and woodsmoke elegance; serious and focussed with a decandent spine of acidity. Mouthwatering!” Decanter World Wine Awards  95.

Terra Fageto Fenèsia Pecorino 2022, $19.95, is a great buy from the Marche region on Italy’s central Adriatic coast. When Ontario’s David Lawrason praises a wine, you know that it is going to be good. He tells us that “this is a very fine example with elegance, sophistication and liveliness. The nose is quite complex (no oak) with lemongrass, lees, green tea, fennel and almost guava-like fruit. It is medium weight, fresh yet substantial - straddling that line so well. The length is excellent. - 93winealign.com

Rosé

Segredos de São Miguel Rosé 2023, $12.95, from Portugal took gold at the Concours Mondial in Brussels. Vintages explains we can expect a wine “full of flavour and lip-smacking acidity” with “hints of watermelon and rose petal.”

Filarino Sangiovese Rosé 2022, $16.95, is from Emilia –Romagna in central Italy. “On the nose fresh raspberries and cherries, then light savoury notes. Fresh and salty on the palate, with a light tannic grip, slightly abrupt on the finish.” Flastaff.com – 88.

Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2023, $17.95. “This is a classic southern French rosé. Pretty aromas of peaches and cream and a touch of spice. Another level up on concentration, intensity and gravitas. A gently phenolic structure with round, ripe fruit, crunchy redcurrants, fresh strawberries, creamy lees richness and the weightiness and intensity of a reserve-level wine.”  Decanter.com – 89.

Red

Colomba Bianca Vitese Nero d'Avola 2022, $13.95, is from a very reliable producer in Sicily. This Vintage has earned three Gold medals and scores of 89 to 90. The winery explains that it is “embracing, fruity and harmonious made from grapes processed in certified organic agriculture. The sophistication and great expression of the tannin define this great Sicilian variety. Nero d’Avola Vitese has a distinct bouquet of fruit notes and spices that combine with floral hints of rose.”

Eminente Reserva Tinto 2021, $16.95, from Portugal’s central Tejo region on the Tagus River “has great tannins and rich black fruits. It is dense, spicy with a touch of smokiness and opulent black-plum flavors. It will develop well, drink from 2024.” Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast – 90.

Duca di Saragnano Governo 2022, $19.95, is a Tuscan blend in which the must of partially dried grapes is added to the fermentation, much like Ripasso in the Veneto. In this Vintages “Wine of the Month” notes of sour cherry and black cherry combine with a complexity of sweet spices to produce a silky-smooth, full-flavoured wine with soft velvet tannins on the finish. It is highly regarded, and carries a Luca Maroni 98.

Pick up a catalogue for this release in the Vintages section, and check out the other great choices as well. Happy hunting!  


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