WINE ALL THE TIME: To drink, or not to drink

Recently, the Canadian Centre on Substance Abuse and Addiction released new guidelines concerning alcohol, and suggested that having more than two drinks a week increases one’s health risks.

This is quite a shift from previous guidelines which suggested women could enjoy up to 10 drinks a week, and men up to 15. The study tells us that alcohol is associated with a number of diseases, including cirrhosis, pancreatitis, heart disease, cancer and gastro-intestinal issues. The American Cancer Society has reported that drinking accounts for about 6 per cent of all cancers, and about 4 per cent of all cancer deaths in the United States.

Obviously, for those who enjoy our wine, this makes us stop and think. One of my first reactions, understandably, was “Say it isn’t so!”, but that isn’t good enough, of course.  

Instead, we want to learn what professionals who are able to interpret the data and findings can tell us about them. One of the many qualified experts who has reacted to the new guidelines is Dan Malleck, professor of Health Sciences at Brock University, an internationally recognized historian of alcohol and drug policy.

In an article by Jeff McIntosh in The Canadian Press aiming at putting the CCSA’s new guidelines into perspective, Malleck notes that, while it has been reported that they are based on nearly 6,000 peer-reviewed studies, the strict and restrictive criteria that was applied ruled out all but 16 of them for use in their mathematical modelling. He suggests that the recommendations are based on a relatively narrow understanding on how alcohol functions.

In terms of “risk” the CCSA talks of relative risk. For example if drinking doubles your risk of a certain disease, that’s relative risk. But what does that actually signify? If a non-drinker’s chance of getting a disease are one in 1,000 and drinking doubles that, the risk is now two in 1,000. This is what would be called the “absolute risk” according to medical studies. For many, that would still be a risk worth taking.

Whereas countries like the U.S. – and up until now, Canada – have based their assessments on the number 100, the new guidelines base them on one in 1,000. Again, doubling the risk of “one in 1,000” is far lower than doing that with “one in 100.”

Malleck also pointed out that the new guidelines look only at the negative impact of alcohol consumption, and don’t take into account positive social impacts.  

Scott White, CEO of Conversation Canada and lead researcher on a national study aiming to develop Canadian Social Connection Guidelines wrote that “the social benefits of alcohol use are fundamentally important in the development of public health guidelines for alcohol consumption.”

He adds that studies have indicated that a person drinking 14 drinks a week may have their life expectancy reduced by six months to a year, compared with that of someone who has zero to seven drinks per week. Again, many would settle for that.

Yes, alcohol is poisonous and harmful, and its use has consequences. We need to put that into perspective, however, and to know more clearly what the actual risks are in order to make our decisions.

As a philosopher once wrote, “Not to know the relative disposition of things is the fate of children and slaves.”
Keep learning.

Flash sale

From Feb. 17 to Feb. 20, the Wine Rack stores in Rome’s and at the Churchill Plaza Metro are featuring two Inniskillin wines for the Family Day weekend.  

The Inniskillin Reserve Riesling VQA will be $3 off at $18.95, while the Inniskillin Reserve Merlot VQA will sell for $21.95, a savings of $5.

Our Niagara region is wonderfully suited for growing Riesling, and this example will not disappoint. Peach and citrus notes make a concentrated and vivid impact in terms of flavour. In texture, the wine is lush and it comes across at the drier end of “off-dry”, but everything is integrated and balanced. This would make a perfect pairing with Asian dishes.

The Merlot is really an excellent wine. On first opening, however, the wine is closed and doesn’t reveal its real character. It needs to breathe, and should be decanted or aerated to allow it to open up. Then, you get the full impact of a wine with everything in balance, with good fruit leading and the impression of coffee on the finish – the winery suggests smoke and leather at the end. There is some tannin detectable, which suggests that this wine could be laid down for a period of time, too.

Vintages

If the Vintages releases in February and March are any indication, prices are going up. On the March 4 release, for example, of the wines we are receiving at the Great Northern Road store, there are just 3 at $17, and nothing below that.

Then, on April 1 (I’m not fooling) the Federal Government is raising its taxes on alcohol by 6.3 per cent, in keeping with inflation. I’m sure the politicians and bureaucrats are feeling our pain…

But unless the new Guidelines have us slamming on the brakes, I am sure we will still be looking for good values to consume… in moderation.

Here are wines either currently in stock or available as of this Saturday, Feb. 18.

Sparkling

Collalbrigo Extra Dry Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, $17.95, hails from the best production area for Prosecco. The International Wine and Spirit Competition in 2021 mentions “.zesty notes of lime and juicy apples and pear. Well-balanced with hints of acacia and honeysuckle.” – 95.  

Santa Margherita Brut Sparkling Rosé, $19.95  According to nataliemaclean.com, “this bubbly is a blend of 50 per cent Chardonnay, 45 per cent Glera (Prosecco) and 5 per cent Malbec grapes. Aromas of small field berries and toast. Pair with seafood, shellfish and vegetarian dishes. Great price. Best Value Wine. Score – 91”.

White

João Portugal Ramos Loureiro Vinho Verde 2021, $13.95, is new to the LCBO. “The soft style of Loureiro is well evident in this creamy, ripe wine. It has a crisp edge to the white fruits and cool freshness. The wine is ready to drink.” Wine Enthusiast  - 88   

Wakefield Estate Label Chardonnay 2021, $17.95, is perennially popular in Vintages. Writer Anthony Gismondi explains that the wine is “bright and aromatic with fresh lemon, vanilla and cream on the nose. The palate is vibrant with peach, nectarine, and lightly toasted cashew streak with lemon pith acidity.” – 89.

Compare the Australian example above to South Africa’s equally popular Cathedral Cellar Chardonnay, also $17.95, which timatkin.com tells us is “fresh tangy and stylishly oaked, with citrus and peach flavours and supporting acidity. The Cape's answer to a Mâcon Villages.” - 91

 A trio of wines are Sauvignon Blanc-based. Chateau Les Tourelles 2021, $15.95 is from Bordeaux, where the whites are traditionally a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the latter bringing a creamy dimension to the wine. This has good intensity and some minerality.

From the Loire, we find the Thierry Delaunay Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $16.95. “It is light to medium bodied, very zesty and tart-edged with mouthwatering acidity and just right sweetness. It has a sleek and glossy feel, with refreshing tart finish” - 90 David Lawrason, winealign.com.

 Bella Terra Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $19.95, from Niagara-on-the-Lake lets us see what Ontario can do with this grape. At winealign.com, its reviews averaged 88, with it being described as “open and grassy” with herbal notes. Vintages mentions tropical fruit along with lemon, grapefruit and peach.

Monteci Pinot Grigio 2020, $17.95, a biodynamic wine, is new to the LCBO. The producer tells us that “after soft pressing, the grapes ferment in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature between 12° - 13° C. Then the wine, via the battonage technique which keeps the noble lees in suspension, ages for 4 months before being bottled. It is characterized by the perfect balance between flavour, sugar content and acidity. Its colour is bright straw-yellow, with soft green reflections and its scent radiates inebriating floral aromas, such as chamomile and white pulp fruit, such as pear.” Luca Maroni gives it a 91.

Red

Tarima Monastrell 2020, $13.95 from Spain, is impeccably made, and a true bargain. Monastrell is known as Mourvedre in France. James Suckling tells us the wine has “blackberries, blackcurrants, peppercorns, chili chocolate, vanilla and black olives on the nose. Full-bodied with firm, ripe tannins. Rich, ripe and chewy. Drink now. Score - 90.”

Casa Santos Lima Colossal Reserva 2018, $16.95, is a popular red from Portugal. “Big bold and spicy… the wine has weight, concentration and further aging potential. – 91” - Wine Enthusiast.  

Glenelly Glass Collection Merlot 2018, $16.95, from South Africa is the latest wine from this “sleeper” estate to reach our shelves. Owned by the former proprietor of one of the top Bordeaux Chateaux, the wines consistently over-deliver for the price. timatkin.com praises its “appealing texture, balance, and complexity.” – 92.

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Syrah 2021, $17.95, from Chile, is a winner according to James Suckling, who writes, “Aromas of dark cherries, dried herbs, smoke, roasted meat, peppermint and hints of vanilla. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins and fresh acidity. Spicy and layered, with a lively finish.” - 92.

The LCBO has been woefully lax in sending to our store Ontario wines released in Vintages. Of 11 wines on the Feb. 18 release, we are receiving but one. Two of eight were slated for the Sault on the Feb. 4 release, and none of the 6 from Jan. 21 showed up here.

In contrast, we were sent 25 wines from California in the same period; however, the Inniskillin Reserve Merlot mentioned above is available through the Wine Rack stores, and the Colio Reserve Merlot 2020, $19.95, with a 91 from Wine Align’s Sara d’Amato (who was raised here in Sault Ste. Marie!) can be found at Pino’s – Sara writes, “A lush and fleshy incarnation, texturally appealing and approachable with memorable juiciness. The tannins offer a light grip and add volume to the palate. Notes of raspberry and black plum with cocoa and tobacco lingering on the finish of very good length.”   

One wine we did receive is the Vineland Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, $19.95. Calling it an exceptional value, winecurrent.com promises that it is  “über-flavourful on the palate with a surge of black currant, espresso roast, crème de cassis and hints of crunchy pie cherry persisting through the lengthy finish and aftertaste adorned with medium-full bodied texture and good tang and acidity throughout.” – 93.   

Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2019, $22.95, is a great example of this style of wine from the Veneto, in which the young Valpolicella undergoes a second fermentation on the skins left over in the production of Amarone. “This wine shows a lot of bright fruit definition with subtle hints of tobacco, spice and rose petal. The finish is smooth, polished and soft in terms of tannic structure.” – 90 robertparker.com

Go get ‘em.