You can't escape death and taxes. Luckily there's wine

It will be Easter in a couple of weeks, but before that, on April 1, federal taxes on alcohol will increase by 6.3 per cent. 

Back in 2017, the Trudeau government instituted an automatic tax hike escalator on alcohol, which at the time, with relatively low inflation, may not have seemed significant. With inflation, that has changed dramatically.

Since the introduction of the escalator, excise taxes on beer, wine, and spirits have gone up over 18 per cent.  

As it stands, about half the retail price of beer is tax. With the increase, the price of wine will be going up to 65 per cent for taxes and 75 per cent of the price of spirits will be taxes. For wine, the new increase may be about 73 cents a litre.

Currently, the LCBO stores don’t have new prices for April 1, as suppliers have the option of adjusting the wholesale prices they submit to the retailer.  

Ironically, in response to a query from Curiocity.com, on this topic, the LCBO ‘explained’ that “suppliers set their own pricing and have the option to adjust their pricing up or down throughout the year in response to currency fluctuations, federal taxes or freight rate changes, or price changes by their competitors. Therefore, any retail price increases are on a product-by-product basis and determined by beverage alcohol producers.” 

Technically, while it is true that the producers and distributors have the opportunity to absorb some of the increase by taking the hit themselves to some extent, it is still a little irksome to make it sound as if they have a whole lot of wiggle room in the process.

Wherever the prices finally land, I sincerely doubt any prices will be dropping! 

In an article on Dec. 30 in the Toronto Sun, the writer quoted Jean-Baptiste Colbert, France’s Minister of Finance back in the 17^th century. Colbert suggested that the job of the tax man is “plucking the goose as to obtain the largest possible amount of feathers with the smallest possible amount of hissing.” In this instance, there‘s a lot more squawking than normal. 

On the one hand, it is taxes which pay for our government services, and we have to understand that they are definitely a “necessary evil.” On the other hand, when we see mismanagement or examples of those at the top acting like the rules don’t apply to them, we can resent the plucking and squeezing. 

That said, how each of us reacts is always going to be up to us individually.  

You can save a few dollars by stocking up before April 1, if you wish. You can also pay attention to the monthly sales and to clearances of overstocked or discontinued items. Ultimately, you want to ensure that what you decide to drink is something you will enjoy.

There will always be values and bargains, and there will always be your favourites. 

With Easter, selection depends first on your choice of entrée, and then on your preference – what kind of wine you like to drink. With a baked ham, for example, I would not recommend a heavy red, nor would I choose a sharp white such as a Sauvignon Blanc, personally. From that point on, however, there are plenty of options. 

Chardonnay lovers might consider the 19 Crimes Martha’s Chard, $2 off through this Sunday at $17.95. Richly flavoured, it has had mixed reviews, but the flavour intensity and balance between tartness and sweetness can pair really well in this instance. A popular Riesling moving well into the medium-sweet range is the Loosen Bros. Dr. L. Riesling, also $17.95. Characteristic with a good Riesling, the impression of sweetness is firmly reined in on the citrusy finish. 

For a red wine with ham, options include a Pinot Noir – as long as it isn’t too light -, an Italian red with good acidity, or even a Petite Sirah, which would be as heavy as I would consider going. 

The Cigar Box Pinot Noir, $14.95, from Chile has some heft and decent plum-like fruit with spicy cinnamon and mocha accent notes. On clearance, Tedeschi’s Lucchine Valpolicella 2021 from Italy’s Veneto is down to $15.75 from $18.95. Critic James Suckling scored it 90, and described it as being “medium-bodied, fruity and crunchy red with cherries, sweet spices and leafy notes. Joyful and succulent.” 

Petite Sirah, also known as Durif, is an interesting mid-weight red. From Lodi in California, the McManis Petite Syrah 2021, $22.95 is said by the Wine Enthusiast to have a “deep-purple hue and full tannic structure that is well met by the voluptuousness of the fruits. Find notes of blackberry bush, bramble, fennel, capsicum, black cherry, smoke, toast and leather.” – 90. It will be available April 1. 

Aside from the Petite Sirah, any of the above wines might also pair well with turkey. In addition a good Rosé, either dry or sparkling, would also be delicious.  Right now, the Tesselae Rosé by Domaine Lafage in France’s Roussillon is just $13.75, down from $16.95. At winealign.com it has been applauded as being “classically-composed and efficiently executed Rosé in a pitch-perfect tone at a bang-on price”....as well as being “fully dry and savoury, firm and juicy.”  They’ve scored it 88. 

For a sparkling rosé, it can be hard to beat the Santa Margherita Brut Sparkling Rosé, $19.95, from the province of Treviso east of Venice. A blend of Chardonnay and Glera (the Prosecco grape), it gets its colour from the addition of a small amount of Malbec. It is easy-going and very fresh with good effervescence and the impact of strawberry raspberry flavours. 

As for finding wines on clearance, check the shelves for small red signs that indicate either “Sale” or “Clearance”. If it just says “Save”, the reduction is usually less, and the item will likely go back up to full price at the end of the term. Presently, the “Save” period ends on Sunday, March 26. I am not sure whether the next period will begin right away, or start after the tax hike on April 1. 

One exceptional buy at $17 is the Finca Sophenia Altosur Malbec 2021 from Argentina. Decanter proclaimed it “Best In Show” at their World Wine Awards, remarking on its saturated density and the “admirable weight, lyricism and lift” to its plum and sloe fruit. “A kind of sappy, stemmy freshness… combines the function of both texture and acidity - and that, in fact, is the origin of the fruit's notable energy and charm.” -97. 

Three other Malbecs on our vintages shelves also come highly rated by the Wine Spectator magazine which includes them in its “Wine Values of the Year.”, Admittedly, the WS idea of ‘Value’ may be a bit steep for many. Nevertheless, look for the Clos de Los Siete, Trivento Golden Reserve, and the Terrazas de los Andes. The last one, a “high altitude” wine retails here for $21.95, and appears to be the exact wine referred to in the Wine Spectator selling for $35 U.S.    

Pesquié Edition 1912M Ventoux 2020, $19.95, is an impressive red blend of 70 per cent Grenache and 30 per cent Syrah, and pays tribute to Mont Ventoux, the last significant mountain in the Alps chain. jebdunnock.com tells us that it “offers pretty strawberry and cherry fruits as well as classic Southern Rhône notes of peppery herbs, spice, and licorice. It has a beautiful sense of minerality on the palate, is medium-bodied, balanced, and just a beautiful wine.” – 91. This is one of the wines that I always buy when it’s available. 

Again, look for the values, but enjoy your favourites, too!