From the Temecula region just north of San Diego up to Mendocino County in the north, California has 142 specifically designated wine regions – of which at least one is just a single vineyard.
While over a hundred different grape varietals have been identified, it is safe to say that a handful of grapes, mostly French in origin, dominate. These include Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay above all, but Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are also significant. In some central coast areas between San Francisco and Los Angeles, you will also find varieties associated with the Rhone in France, like Syrah.
For the most part, the best wines are produced relatively close to the Pacific coast. When the regions are a little further inland, as is the case with Lodi and Paso Robles, quality production is possible because of gaps bringing the cooling influence of the Pacific inland, dropping temperatures significantly overnight.
Inland north of L.A. is the huge central valley that runs over 400 miles from north of Sacramento to the area around Bakersfield in the south. The valley is also 40 to 60 miles wide. In other words, it is huge, and among many other crops, it produces about 75 per cent of the state’s grapes, almost all of it considered to be basic table-wine quality. Hot and dry, it has great soil, but clearly demands irrigation.
It is here, around Modesto, that Gallo got its start. When the brothers, Ernest and Julio, were about 12, their parents bought a ranch, vineyard and farmhouse in 1922. In 1933, after prohibition ended, the pair started their wine business, selling 177,000 gallons in 1933, building that to 440,000 gallons in just one year.
Thriving in the bulk wine sector, Gallo eventually expanded into the fine-wine business and is now the largest winery in the world with about 6,000 employees, fifteen wineries and 20,000 acres of vineyards in California and Washington. It is still family-owned with 14 family members working in the company, including wine-maker Gina Gallo, Julio’s granddaughter.
There are just a few bottles of wines actually labelled Gallo in the LCBO system today, but when they appear, they are worth buying. Gallo can compete, I believe, at any quality level, and sell its wines for less than anybody else.
Gallo has many labels. Its Ghost Pine wines consist of fruit from many areas, but rather than use the simple “California” designation, they make an effort to indicate the origin and percentages of the fruit which makes up the wine. The 2019 Chardonnay, $21.95, has 53 per cent Sonoma, 27 per cent Napa, and 20 per cent Monterey fruit. On the Nataliemaclean.com site, blogger Christian Marcoux writes, “This delicious everyday Chardonnay reveals aromas green apple, pear, lime peel, salt, butter and crème brulée. Full-bodied with a tight acidity, the wine evolves to a medium finish, providing many pairing options. Palate: pineapple, lime, honey, salt, toast, spice and vanilla.” – 89.
For fine wine, Napa Valley, north and slightly east of San Francisco, is the most coveted spot in the United States, with Sonoma County, just over the mountains towards the Pacific Coast, coming in second. In this narrow, 20-mile long valley, Caberent Sauvignon and Chardonnay dominate.
The price of vineyards and the price of grapes is by far highest in Napa, with Sonoma in second place. For example, in 2020, a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon was $7,941 in Napa, compared to $3,056 in Sonoma. With all Grape Varietals, it is only Pinot Noir that was more expensive in Sonoma. In comparison, the smaller district of Lodi averaged about $700 a ton in 2018. Now you know why Napa wines can be so expensive.
In Napa, there are different Ava’s along the valley floor from the town of Napa in the south to Calistoga in the north, with many others such as Mt. Veeder and Howell Mountain as you move up the hillsides.
On the eastern side of the valley is the Stags Leap District which is noteworthy for a couple of reasons. It was in 1976 at The Judgment of Paris which pitted top Bordeaux wines against newcomers from California that the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V.Caberent Sauvignon came first in the blind tasting, putting California on the map for wines of the highest quality.
The other intriguing footnote is that at the same time that this winery was established, another was also started with practically the same name and same label –Stags’ Leap Winery.
The case over who had the right to the name went to the California Supreme Court where the judge - in his wisdom? – ruled that as both were established at roughly the same time, both could use the Stags Leap name, but one would be Stag’s Leap, and the other Stag's Leap. Take a look at the labels below: the judge certainly made it easier for consumers to know what they were getting. Didn’t he?
The Wine Cellars are still renowned for its Cabs, while the Winery, according to the Wine Spectator, is particularly successful with its Petit Sirah. This could be perfect time heading to Valentine's Day to get a bottle of each for someone who would appreciate it
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvigon, $89.95, is a Vintages Essential. Of the 2018, Jennifer Havers, is quoted on the Nataliemaclean.com website: “Aromas of black currant and raspberry, with notes of warm earth, coffee, mocha and some savoury hints. Full bodied, with some soft tannins and bright acidity. Fruit is dark and brooding on the palate, ripe but not jammy at all, lots of structure, and nice balance of acidity and structure. Over-all, this wine is rich, balanced, and refined. Beautiful!” Artemis is made from estate and purchased grapes: the SLV 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon was released in Vintages on December 16, 2021 for $325 a bottle – and it is all gone!
Stags’ Leap Winery Petite Sirah 2018, $59.95, “is a soft, integrated and approachable red made in a graceful and balanced style. Savory in black plum, leather, dried herb and cocoa powder, it finds its way to a peppery finish.” Score - 91. Wine Enthusiast.
The neighbour next door, Sonoma County, is more varied, both in landscape and wines produced. Stylistically, there is a greater impact on the wines from the diurnal shift, the difference in night time and daytime temperatures. It can be 90+F in the afternoon, and 40 F or so overnight. Sonoma is hilly and twisty with all kinds of micro-climates at play. I recall the cellar master at Hartford Court referring to a Pinot Noir vineyard as “Pneumonia Gulch”, it got so cool overnight.
One of the most popular California Pinot Noirs come from La Crema, part of the Jackson Family portfolio. The 2019 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, $34.95, is smooth, balanced and delicious, with juicy flavours of red cherry and plum accompanied by accents of cinnamon, sweet pipe tobacco, orange and a forest floor earthiness.
In the heart of Sonoma is the Russian River Valley near Healdsburg. There, Rodney Strong has established a presence making wines that typify the region. According to The Tasting Panel, a trade magazine based in San Francisco, the 2018 Sonoma Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, $27.95, with fruit from three separate vineyards, is “an expressive red that speaks of violets, blueberry, soy sauce, and underbrush on both the nose and palate while further proving its worthiness with alert acidity, a stream of dark chocolate, and lush notes of coffee.” – 92.
On February 5, the 2018 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet from the region just north of Sonoma will be on the shelves. Calling it a “quintessential meat wine”, vinepair.com suggests flavours of black cherry, plum and cassis “accompanied by accents of “cinnamon… vanilla, dark chocolate and herbs.”
Zinfandel, I believe, is the grape that truly characterizes California wine. Until recently, no one knew exactly what it was or where it came from, and it has been growing in California for so long that there are many vineyards well over 100 years old. Only recently has it been identified as being a close sibling to Italy’s Primitivo, both of them descending from a Croatian parent grape.
One of the best regions for Zinfandel is the area around the town of Lodi in San Joaquin County. Almost directly inland from San Francisco Bay, its hot, dry summer days are relieved by cool, foggy winds at night which cause nightly temperatures to plummet.
LangeTwins Family is the maker of Ivory & Burt Zinfandel 2018, $19.95.of which Ontario’s winecurrent.com writes, “It surges over the palate with black currant, black raspberry and hints of passionfruit and pie cherry that balance each other on the palate and throughout the finish and aftertaste. This has depth and complexity along with a good underpinning of supple tannin." - 92. Winecurrent.com calls it an exceptional value. Given that the winery sells it for $15 U.S., our $20 is very reasonable.
25 miles south of Lodi is the lone single-vineyard AVA, River Junction. The impact of the convergence of the rivers is to lower temperatures by 2 to 5 degrees, which can be significant. There we find the McManis family, whose wines regularly appear in Vintages. On February 5 the McManis Chardonnay 2020, $19.95, will arrive. Fermented in stainless steel and elevated in new and old oak, it will be laden with tropical and orchard fruit –banana, pear, peach – and have a creamy texture.
Along the coast, just south of San José, is Monterey where you also find the famed Pebble Beach Golf resort. Scheid Vineyards Monterey County VDR Very Dark Red 2018 is a blend of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot. Elsewhere in the world the former is known as “Durif”, and the latter is more commonly part of the Bordeaux blend. From fruit grown on the eastern, more sheltered side of the Santa Lucia foothills, this almost black wine is rich and big with 15 per cent alcohol. Dense and concentrated with ample dark fruit and 18 grams of sugar per litre, the wine is probably best enjoyed as a sipper, perhaps accompanied by a strong cheese – not unlike Port in this respect. It has been compared to Apothic Dark, but is more finely crafted.
A white from the area is the Hess Select Monterey County Chardonnay 2019, $19.95, said by the Wine Enthusiast to offer “aromas of peach and salted nuts. The palate is smoothed out in texture, with flavors of yellow peach, lemon and a hint of chamomile.” - 87. In contrast, the Hess Select Napa Valley Chardonnay retails in Ontario for $29.95
Further south just off the coast is a region that generally gives really good value, Paso Robles. The climate is again moderated by the Pacific, this time thanks to the Templeton Gap, a break in the coastal ridge-line which draws the cooling influence inland. Though the region is noted for being the home of Rhone varietals, such as Syrah (red) and Marsanne (white), none of those wines are currently found in the LCBO.
In addition to the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon –from Paso Robles we have Paso Creek and J. Lohr represented on our shelves - we will also have the Broadside Cellars Margarita Vineyard Merlot 2018, $24.95, on the February 5 Vintages release. The Wine Enthusiast explains that “the wine lands with a ripe quality on the palate, offering that rich and dark-cherry and mulberry character, but also presenting white pepper and minty tarragon.” – 93.
Most of the wines on the general list are simply labeled “California”, as fruit is often assembled from several regions. Such is the case as well with the Vintages Feb.5 offering, Bogle Petite Syrah 2018, $22.95 which the Wine Enthusiast tells us has “delicious blackberry, blueberry and dark-chocolate flavors…wrapped in thick soft tannins. This is a full-bodied wine, with a mouth-coating texture.” – 91.
Some wines may be a bit more specific in regional labelling, such as the North Coast Aquinas Pinot Noir 2017, $21.95. Basically ‘North Coast’ could be anywhere above San Francisco. Winemag.com explains that “a buttery, spicy layer of oak coats the jammy cherry and berry flavors in this stylized, ripe and almost-sweet wine,” giving it a passable 85. I would think the “sweetness” is rather in the character of the fruit, as the LCBO identifies only 5 grams of sugar per litre. The popular Meiomi Pinot Noir, has more than 3 times that amount.
In general, California wines tend to be all about fruit, with the vineyards closest to the coast being a bit leaner, and wines inland bigger and often with more alcohol. California wines are also more expensive here than wines of comparable quality from pretty well everywhere else. There are many factors playing into that - the difference in our dollars, the relative cost of the fruit and labour in California, compared let’s say to South America, and differences in the trade relationships that we have with other producing countries.
A case in point, Italian wines generally retail for significantly less here than the suggested retail price in the States. One example, the regular list Fantini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, is $9.00 here, with an SRP in the States a year ago of $11 U.S. We can get 1.5 litres for that price.
Of the California wines we see, Chardonnay in white, and Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel in red dominate. Stylistically, they are generally very tasty and satisfying. It can be fun to pick some from different regions and compare, and informative to try them alongside similar grape types from other countries. What’s not to like? Enjoy.
Already on our shelves or coming next Saturday from Vintages are other wines which offer both significant variety to the wines above and, in many cases, great value.
White
La Griffe Bernard Chéreau Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2020, $16.95. A review from vinello.eu says it all: “the fresh bouquet of white wine from the Loire delights with juicy citrus fruits and stone fruits, which are matched by hints of white flowers, delicate brioche and a hint of iodine. The fine fruity, fresh, elegant and dry white wine gets the certain something through the lively acidity and the delicate minerality. The beautiful reverberation is fragrant and reminiscent of juicy citrus fruits.”
From Austria, Lenz Moser Prestige Gruner Veltliner 2020, $16.95, promises to display a “juicy, elegant, gentle hue of honeydew melon, fresh acidity curve, mineral-lemony in the finish, blossom honey in the aftertaste.” Falstaff.at – 90.
Sauvignon Blanc Alert – there are four highly-rated examples on the February 5 release. Of them, Two Rivers Convergence Sauvignon Blanc 2021, $21.95 is very attractive. “The intensely fragrant bouquet shows green rock melon, kaffir lime, jalapeno and kiwifruit notes, leading to a powerfully concentrated palate displaying outstanding weight and persistency.” – wineorbit.co.nz – 96.
Bachelder L’Ardoise Niagara Chardonnay 2019, $24.95 – here’s a Niagara wine from Thomas Bachelder, an expert in Burgundian character Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, to contrast with our California examples above. gismondionwine.com, states “Creamy and open, with lemon curd, yellow apple, fragrant pear blossom on a bed of fine lees, this is a welcome, open, smart chardy ready for drinking now.” - 89.
Red
Spain’s Señorío de Barahonda Carro 2019, $12.95, is smooth, supple and delicious with very good weight and length. Vinous.com praises it for being “juicy and broad on the palate, offering smoke-accented blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter with air.” - 90.
Portugal’s Flor de Maio Mayflower 2016, $13.95, with a Gold from Mundus Vini 2017. This red which was fermented in stainless steel is tasty and bright with lifted cherry and red berry fruit and a lovely finishing grip which is typical of Portuguese wines of this character. (Feb. 5)
Spain’s Cimal Garnacha 2016, $14.95, shows “black cherries, hot stones and lavender. Full body, dense and compact texture, firm tannins and a vibrant and exciting finish.” James Suckling – 92. (Garnacha = Grenache) February 5 release.
From Chile, on February 5, don’t miss the Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva 2018, $19.95, which Decanter rated 93. From the house that gives us the prestigious Premier Cru Bordeaux, Chateau Mouton- Rothschild (a $1000 bottle of wine), comes this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Of it, Decanter describes “Deep aromas of cassis, mint, chocolate and spice, with a savoury/balsamic base note. Fine tannins offer a precise framework to the layered flavours of the generous palate: lush blackberry, plum and cherry fruit, spice notes and roasted coffee hints”
